3D Printing Guide

3D Printing Guide

Getting Started

The 3D-Printers we have are of the model Bambu Labs X1 Carbon with an AMS system. First you will need to install Bambu Studio on your computer from the Bambu Lab site:

https://bambulab.com/en/download/studio

To create an account is recommended as it can be used together with Bambu Labs community site MakerWorld to find ready made printable models.

It is an excellent idea to familiarise oneself with the 3D printer first. Print a small thing from the default list of items that are already on the machine. How much plastic will it use? How long time will it take? How do you change filament spools? How do you enter the correct settings for filament spools?

• Read more about it here: https://bambulab.com/en/x1
• Video tutorial: https://www.youtube.com/RistInnovations

Network Setup

The printers will typically be run in LAN-mode and thus connected to a local network. This should be configured already and you can check what network that is by selecting Utilities -> Network on the 3D-printer display. If it does not automatically connect to a local network:

a) check with your supervisor/teacher what the network would be and the password to access it or

b) create your own temporary local network using a laptop or smartphone. Please note that many networks like e.g. SH Guest or Eduroam may not work smoothly due to firewall restrictions.

When the printer has been successfully connected to a network (can be tested at the panel):

1. Make sure that the computer running Bambu Studio is connected to the same local network as the 3D printer (important).
2. Make sure that the printer has a microSD-card in its slot (In LAN-mode it needs extra memory since its not connected to the cloud).

There are various pitfalls here – one is that your computer might be restrictive regarding firewall rules. An easy fix is to temporarily turn off the firewall for the local network: https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/software/bambu-studio/failed-to-connect-printer

A more advanced fix is to add rules to the firewall so that the 3D printer can talk over the following ports: https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/general/printer-network-ports

If it is the first time setting up Bambu Studio we need to add the 3D-printer to the list of known devices.

Select “Device” tab -> To the left in the menu select “Bind with access code”. To bind the printer you need three codes/values that can be found on the printer screen:

1. Printers IP-address: Can be found under Utilities -> Network Tab -> Current Network. Should look something like “192.168.x.y”
2. The Access Code (AC): Can be found under Utilities -> General (make sure the printer is in LAN Only mode) and would look something like “abc90d8e”
3. The Machine Serial Number (SN): Can be found under Utilities -> General -> Device Info and should look something like “00M09D1234567890”

If everything is correct the 3D printer should now be connected to Bambu Studio.

If the LAN-mode is not working, it is possible to connect it via the Cloud Mode (set LAN-Only mode to “off”). Just log-in to your Bambu Account (scan the QR-code on the printer) and done. Only caveat – use e.g. your phone as local access-point and make sure to use your mobile network since Eduroam have essential ports closed. The downside using the Cloud Mode method is that only one account can be logged in at the machine at any given time.

3D Printer Hardware

https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/x1

AMS System: This is the automatic filament loader that holds up to 4 spools of plastic filament and enables multi-colored printing.

PEI-Plate: The bed should be kept clean from residues and dust. The special sheet on top is magnetically attached to the plate and can be picked up by holding its edges. Do not use glue or wash it with water! Only the dedicated cleaning solvent or 96% alcohol should be used.

LIDAR Sensor: The Bambu Labs X1 Carbon 3D printer does a number of tests before starting each print. This is normal procedure. It features a LIDAR sensor that carefully inspects things like the flow pattern (how fast it can squeeze out plastic at various movement speeds) and first layer composition. The first layer is traditionally very important since it determines if the model will stick properly.

Camera: The printer comes with a built in camera. Bambu Studio can be used to view it printing in real time or one can choose to save a time-lapse video of the print to a micro SD-card. Last but not least – it can (often) detect when a print fails and starts to make blobs of yarn.

Micro SD-card: Good old . Useful for saving timelapse videos and a library of already printed models (this option needs to be selected at the printer screen under Settings -> Print Options -> Cache Print Cloud Files to SD-card. If there is a SD-Card in place, please do not remove it (only exception when using it explicitly and temporarily as a manual backup solution for when its tricky to connect to a network).

Preparations Before Printing

1. Make sure that the previous print and any residue in the printing chamber is removed. Scrape it off the PEI-plate with the small 3D-printed plastic scraper. If the scraper is “bad” or broken – simply print a new on from the menu at printers display. Look at the floor and pick up any residue filament. Remember to not touch the surface of the PEI-plate with hands or touch the metal screw-rods on the side. Close the door before printing.
2. Check that the filament spools are properly set up. When changing a spool it is important that the filament is not twisted. To make sure to not twist the filament please keep it tightened to the spool while inserting and securing the end of the filament into a hole to the side of the spool. Please be gentle and only push the knob on top of the insertion-funnel slightly forward when inserting a new filament. On the machine under Settings -> Filament one needs to select the type of filament unless it has been detected automatically. Typically this would be “Generic PLA”.
3. Check that there are no error messages (last Speech-bubble icon below Utilities).

There are typically two main steps in preparing a 3D print:

1. Designing or acquiring a 3D model. Most 3D-modeling software can be used for 3D printing e.g. tinkercad.com (easy and powerful), Blender, Maya, etc. As long as its possible to export in e.g. STL, OBJ or 3MF. The other option is to acquire community made models. Those can be found on various sites e.g. makerworld.com or thingiverse.com. If the idea is to use multiple colours please read the section about “Multi coloured printing” below.
2. Importing and slicing the model. To be able to print the model we need a software that can transform a 3D-model into commands that the 3D printer can understand. Once the model is properly seated you can “slice it” by pressing the “Slice plate” button. The result of this step is a so called g-code file that is visualized in the Preview Tab. This file (hopefully without warnings or errors) can then be sent to the 3D printer bu basically pressing the button called “Print plate”.

Bambu Studio

The slicing software have an abundance of settings. The most important ones to know about are the following:

Machine: Make sure its the right machine – in our case it should be “Bambu Lab X1 Carbon 0.4 nozzle”

Nozzle size: This is how large the physical hole is in the “printing head” or “nozzle” that extrudes the plastic. By default this is 0.4mm but it can also be other sizes. If another size is used it should be clearly marked on the printers front with a post it or similar label.

Filament type: There are many types of plastic. The default nowadays is PLA but make sure to double and triple check this. The AMS system often recognizes Bambu branded spools automatically as “Bambu PLA”, but other branded spools can be used by selecting the “Generic PLA” option.

Bed Adhesion: The prints needs to be properly set onto the plate (the bed) and by default we use a PEI-plate that has a special coating and structure that make prints stick quite well. Note that it should be avoided to touch the surface of the PEI-plate with hands as it will deposit dirt and fatty acids. To improve adhesion and make the print stick there are a few options: Bed, Brim, Skirt all provides different support structure that helps with adhesion.

Speed: The speed of the printing head. The printer is really advanced and optimizes this automatically – do not change these default settings.

Prime Tower: An additional printed structure that helps clean the nozzle during print. Especially useful for removing artefacts when printing in multiple colors. Should in most cases be disabled in order to save time and material!

Walls and Wall loops: primary setting for strengthening the print, it adjusts the number of layers in the outer wall.

Infill: A setting that determines what kind of filling structure a print will have in its “thick” parts. Typically this “Sparse infill” setting would be between 8-15%. It’s also possible to select a pattern for the infill. The idea here is to save time and plastic as well as figure out what infill makes it sturdy enough for its intended use.

Support: These settings are about generating support structure where the model have an overhang above ~45 degrees. In order for the nozzle to be able to print properly it is important that there are material in the layer below to extrude to. If that is missing – the slicer will automatically try to print support structure, and in order for it to do that “Enable support” needs to be enabled.

Multi colored printing: With an AMS its possible to print in many (typically up to 4) colors. A very important thing to understand is that the machine prints in layers bottom-up. These can be inspected in the “Preview” tab in Bambu Studio by using the green slider to the right. Now, if multiple colors are used it will change the filament and create a ball of residue filament which it will dispose at the back of the machine. If several colors are present in the same layer this will happen for every layer! Thus, this could potentially produce a massive amount if not thought through properly before slicing the model and setting up the print. If let’s say the bottom layers have one color and the top layers have another, it will only need to change once. Make sure to design your multi-colored object in either separate modules to be printed separately or to “layer” the colors in such a way that it minimizes printing residues.